I’m back. Apologies for the lack of post since last Sunday but this week has taken a hectic and unexpected turn.
I was hoping calmly to write my summit push account in the sunshine at Base Camp as I promised in my last post, but on Monday morning it began to snow, and snow…and snow. And so just when the season was drawing to a close, we got hit by the biggest storm of the year, lasting two full days. As a result we had no solar power…and I couldn’t write my account.
On Monday morning we woke up to a very snowy Base Camp, but we also got ready to welcome the members of Team 2 back from their summit push. It was a very emotional scene as they came into camp, with every guide, Sherpa and member of Team 1 banging pans and cheering. Team 2 had suffered from a much more difficult summit day – colder, windier, and no view from the summit. Many of them had been ill with a late strain of ‘Delhi belly’ and fought through difficult conditions to succeed. With Team 2 back in camp and all the Sherpas off the mountain we were all able to breathe a sigh of relief – everyone was back in camp, and no one was injured or frostbitten – quite an achievement.
After the elation of Monday morning the storm hit hard. A meter of snow fell on Monday and on Tuesday morning Alix and I woke at 5am with the roof of our tent pressed against our noses – it had collapsed on us from the weight of another half meter of snow that had fallen overnight. Suddenly we heard voices – team-mates offering to dig us out. The noise of shovels scraping against the tent fabric began and eventually we were able to crawl out and help with the excavation of camp. It was an incredible scene – tents had literally disappeared under the snow and people were trapped. Eventually over 2 meters (6 feet) of snow would cover the camp.
Russell called a meeting and announced that a) we would have to spend the morning helping with the ‘digging out’ of camp, but that the storm was due to abate later that day, and b) we would have a party starting at midday once the job was done. He then produced three full barrels of champagne and we got to work knowing that another of his famous end of expedition marathon white pod parties would be starting once we’d finished our work.
The party was great fun, although perhaps a little bittersweet and difficult for those who had not made the summit. As the storm raged outside we cranked up the music and the bar flowed freely. All the climbers and sherpas squeezed into the white pod. It was surreal – raving away at 5,300m in the middle of the day during a blizzard. Without going into details the party ran from 1pm to 4am, and one of the guides was found sleeping on the floor of the pod at 7am, curled around the fire…
Given the weather no-one expected that we would be leaving camp, as had been planned, any time soon. So everyone got WELL into the party mood. I dragged myself to bed at 3am, and was woken by Alix at 6am to be told that a) the weather had cleared up and b) as a result Russell had decided that we would take advantage of the break in the weather to leave Base Camp for the walk out.
I was massively hung-over and under-slept (alcohol at altitude has a much stronger effect…). Reluctantly I began final packing of the barrels that would travel separately by porter and what would travel with us. With a pounding head this was a tricky operation but eventually we were ready, and after goodbyes to Russell, the Sherpas and the guides, Alix and I set off with the rest of the team down the valley.
This was yesterday morning. We trekked through deep snow initially, then through the slush as we dropped in altitude. Alix and I made it down to Pheriche at 4,200 meters and this morning we flew out by helicopter to Kathmandu.
So now I write from a hot dusty city. I feel like a prisoner released from the clink after a long stretch inside. No more regimented meal times with a gong banged at 8am, 1pm, and 6.30pm. Choice of food, heat, bustle, cars. It is all a bit of a shock. I was at EBC just yesterday morning. It all feels very strange.
So we are now beginning to relax. We are planning a big group dinner on Saturday night when the team re-groups in Kathmandu. Then there are the barrels which are making their way slowly down the Khumbu valley by yak before they are loaded on backed-up flights. It could be a while.
But at least it will give me some time to reflect on the whole summit experience and post as I promised – the last week has just been too much of a blur. I will post my summit push post with all the photos within the next few days now that I have electricity and time!
So over and out from…..Kathmandu.
Tags: 14 Comments
Thank God and Dom Perignon for a successful finish, Alix and Valerio! Grand congratulations for a safe return–
Chris and David
The picture of you hugging the red duvet man is heart-melting. It has all the innocence and joy of a man who has realized his childhood dreams. It has been a long climb indeed from Gran Sasso to Mount Everest. I am relieved that you are back safe and am very proud of you.
You have certainly awaked us in ‘Sleepy ‘Ol Mexico’. We have been riveted and, even though we have yet to meet, you have had us glued. Gracias for staying awake long enough to give us that dramatic update of the summit and descent. What luck to have missed the storm by such a short few hours and have been able to have a vista from the summit. Alix’s parents are due here tomorrow and we hope you and Alix will someday visit and enjoy our casas by the sea. That hangover must be rivaled only by a tequila sunrise!!! To the memory of a lifetime!!!
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